Last Saturday, my wife called me over to the drying machine and told me that it just was not putting out hot air. The dryer was pushing air though the basket, but there was no heat. In South Carolina, it is so humid drying clothes without a dryer is a multi day process. I knew it would cost at least $120 (two trips- One to inspect and one to install the part) plus the padded cost of a part to fix it. I decided to go the frugal way, and get more blogging material. First, I checked on the internet and found some plans for the dryer. (It is a model GEW9200LW0). Here is a link to a site with the repair manual. I saved it on my computer so I would have it for future reference.
The tools I needed to fix this were a flashlight, a ratchet, a 1/4 ” socket, and hopefully a nut driver. (I just used the socket on a screwdriver adapter).
Before you even start to rip your dryer apart, reset the breaker and make sure you have power to the back of the dryer. I checked these and found out I had to look deeper. Before I did this I unplugged the dryer and then double checked to make sure . I really don’t like the idea of having the poop literally shocked out of me.
The good news is that I did not have to tear the dryer apart to get to two additional possible problems. First you need to take off the bottom panel, using a 1/4 ” socket to remove the two screws that are on the bottom front corners of the dryer. I propped it up on some 2×6’s to get easier access to the screws and make it easier to slide the bottom panel off.
There is a thermal fuse that shorts out if the dryer outflow is too hot. This prevents you from destroying larger more expensive components, and all you have to do is buy a $10 fuse. The fuse is located behind the blower casing, which you can reach around if you take off the bottom panel. It is a white flat plastic piece, about 1×1″, with two connectors coming out of it. It is pretty well centered in the dryer by the blower. To check if it is good, check it’s resistance after unplugging it from the system. It should be darn near zero. If it is open (infinite resistance), you have melted the fuse and need to buy a new one. Just take it out with a ratchet and don’t lose the screws. Make sure you clean out your dryer vent, as restricted flow because of lint is generally
the cause of overheating. That wasn’t my problem.
I then checked the heater. You can also access this through the bottom front panel. I undid the green grounding wire so I could have a little more working room. This also would have helped me check the thermal fuse, as the angle is very difficult to work with. I also removed the plate over the front of the heater when I removed the
one screw holding it. At this point you should be looking at this.
To test if the heater is working, unplug one of the red wires on the end closest to you and test the resistance of the heater. It should be between 7 and 12 ohms. Mine was zero. I removed the other red wire and took out the heater. There is a screw right behind where the wires are hooked up, and I used by ratchet to remove that screw. The heater then slides out. The problem is the spades run into the blower on the way out. To get around this I just unscrewed the screws used to hold the heater holder to the bottom of the dryer, as shown in picture 2. I was able to slide the heater holder over just enough to slide the heater out. The heater had a break in the wire, so I looked at ordering a new one. The best price I found was at partstap, paying about $36 for the part and $6 shipping. The part was $60 at a few places. I ordered the part late Saturday night and it got here today (Wednesday). I slid it into the slot, replaced the screw, and reconnected the wires. I put everything back in place, happily not ending up with any holes or screws left over. I double checked all the connections before I replaced the front panel. I plugged it in and it is working. Yeah!
Things I learned.
- Use Google to find some valuable information.
- Partstap made a positive impression on me based on shipping speed and price. Shopping around saved me over 40%. Let me know what your experiences are with them, so I can find out if this was a great isolated incident, or the rule. So far, people have said that it is easy to order from them, but hard to return. Based on comments that I am getting, it looks like Ebay can also have some great (best) deals on the part. Scroll through the comments to get a better picture.
- Don’t get shocked. I didn’t get shocked and I liked that. You will too. Unplug it!
Happy trails, good luck, and give me feedback on anything you would like to see.
Thanks for the feedback that I have thus far recieved.
Fix it up, Use it up, Wear it out 
Hello,
I am also having the same problem, but I am not very good with repairing this kind of stuff. Is there anyone you would recommend for getting this stuff checked out to be repaired? I live in Georgia and I am having a company come out to clean out the ducts, but I am sure they won’t touch the dryer itself. Thanks.
Hey Suman,
I don’t know if the pictures and link were up when you first took a look. Something wierd happened to the page. Anyway, I would just try it yourself. Pull up the repair manual, and look at this guide. If not, ask a friend. The local companies are fairly good, they just have to charge a lot to stay in business. If it takes 1/2 hour to get to your house, 15 minutes to check it out, they still have to charge at least $60 to cover their time, gas, etc. Then they have to order the part and do it again, this time charging for installation and the part. They aren’t being dishonest or greedy, just trying to make enough to live a decent life.
Most people think they are not good at these things because they have never tried. If you have a mechanically inclined friend, you could have him over to watch you. He will keep you from doing anything stupid, and you will be surprised at how easily everything fits together. For tools, you could go to Walmart and get a nut driver set with a little ratchet that would take care of a lot of home repairs for 15 bucks. Good luck
With these directions it really is quite easy. Of course not as easy as having someone else do it but a lot less expensive and I felt really proud that my husband and I together fixed the problem ourselves and saved a lot of money!! Thank you
Thank you for this information. It really helps to get a visual before I start.
What I really am “praising” you for is the respect you are showing for the repairman. As long as they are honest, they have to make a living and yes their fees have to include overhead. It is our option to try/learn it ourselves and save that cost.
Pictures are kinda dark, but the info is awesome! Thank you, thank you, thank you! In my case, the fuse was bad. Got one from Partstap as you’ve suggested. $11.34 plus 5.95 shipping, no tax. Order was placed on tuesday 11/6 at around 11am and delivered the following day (!!!), yesterday (don’t know what time, I wasn’t home). The first load went in last night and was dry 40 minutes later. My wife thinks I’m god! I agree… 🙂 Thanks for helping out.
Partstap seems like a solid place, unless I got lucky as well. I’ll try again when needed, we’ll see. Who came up with that name anyway? Parts tap??? I guess you have to be creative these days. Anyway, I’m happy. Delivery was amazing fast. Thanks again for the info and recommendation.
-mike
Great sight. Just replaced heater element after following the directions. If you dont have a multimeter or know how to check resistance just pull the heater element out and look it over. The element looks like a spring. Mine was broken so it was obvious.
Mine was broken also, partsap was more expensive than my local appliance parts store, thank you for the DIY information.
I have a whirlpool duet.Mine is tumbling but the heat is very very low.Have tried cleaning vent, using different cycles, etc,etc,etc….can’t figure out the problem.Any suggestions?
mine only gets nice and hot if i have it on the heavy duty (59 minutes) setting…then i take them out in about 25 min. cause they are dry…
Stacey, have you already opened it up? I would assume it is a problem with either the heating element or the fuse. If not, I would check to see if there are any bad connections between the heating element and the power source. If there isn’t a bad connection, I would have someone look at it. I wish you luck, adn sorry the response took so long.
Good luck
I have mine open but am unable to detach one of the element hookup cords. Also mine looks so much bigger than the pictures I see online and does not look like it will slide out. Any recommendations – what am I missing?
Hey Mary,
The connections can be bery stubborn. I had to use pliers to get mine off. I just worked it back and forth until it popped off. Make sure you aren’t bending the metal tabs, but are just slowly sliding it off.
If it is the same drier, it should slide right out. It was a snug, but not tight, fit for me. Make sure you take off the screw that holds the heating element in. If you are still having trouble with it, I would be sure to download the PDF of the manual so you can be sure you know what you are looking at.
Good luck,
Brian
Great info so far but stuck..I have determined that it is the heater but how the heck do you get it out? I disconected the red wires for testing and the the screw behind them but now what. My coils are in that silver duct work with two wire leads leading to the heater thing I tested. Maybe I am just to dumb but how do I get it out? My husband thinks I’m an idiot but now I want to prove him wrong! I have already located the part locally but can’t get it out-HELP
I think it is just wedged. Try to jiggle it a little bit to see if you can get it to move. I just want to clarify, you removed the screw that is right behind the two wires connected to the element. If you did this it should come out. Just make sure that you don’t have a wierd bind on it.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any more questions.
Brian
Hello! Usefull information! By brazilian man, Jairo Franc.
THANKS A BUNCH!!! This helped me confirm after I had it apart that I was on the right track. As for sliding out…my was really wedged in the tube, but after tapping lightly on the tube I was able to slide it out. Just don’t forget the screw!
Hoping to get the part fast! Thanks again
t
We are having a problem with our Whirlpool Duet Dryer, drying our clothes. The dryer shuts off before the time is up or the clothes are dry. Usually not exceeding half the time required. At one time we got an error message of “E1” stating there was a problem. We would like to know what the problem is and how it can be repaired.
Hey James. The error code E1 says that the thermistor has gone bad. You can access the thermistor by opening the bottom panel. The thermistor can be found behind the lint duct right by the thermal fuse. Buy a new one and replace it. If you open the manual linked on this page, you can see a picture of it on page 39 in the pdf, which will be labeled 4-7 at the bottom. You have to slide off two electrical connections and undo two screws.
By the way, a thermistor is something that use resistance to electricity to measure temperature. It is a kind of thermostat for the dryer.
To buy the replacement part, you can check around the internet. Partstap has it here
http://www.partstap.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=265488
It is number 42 on the list, and costs $19.90 right now. Good luck, and let me know if this answers your question
I used your site as a reference and I was able to fix my Dryer. I ordered a part from partstap.com which ended up not needing, and I am having a really bad experience with partstap.com in regards to return. They are supposed to give me an RMA number and have not done so for over a week now. Each time I call they say ‘it will be given by the end of the day’ and it has been already over a week. Just be careful ordering items from partstap.com
Thanks so much! These were perfect directions! My fuse was good so I moved on to the element and that was the problem. I changed it with no problems and voila!! HEAT! So, thanks for the great info!
I have a duet dryer that even on medium setting you get HOT clothes with a burned smell – i hate that. Would that be a heating element issue? Thanks!
We are having this same issue with a burned smell as we start the dryer. The hose is clear, but the smell is still there.
Did the thermistor work??? Thanks
Hey Linda,
It sounds like this might be the thermistor. I really don’t know but it is worth a try. If the thermistor is manufacturing, the dryer doesn’t know how hot it is getting, and could either send too much or too little heat. Look up about 4 comments to see where the thermistor is. The other thing you could check is the lint line on the way out. If it is getting clogged, air won’t circulate as fast as it needs to. Just clean out the line and see if that fixes the problem.
Good luck and let us know what it ends up being.
Thanks
Hello. My whirlpool duet electric dryer is not working.
All the lights are working so as the timer but the drum does not spin. What can be wrong? Model is WED92000SQ0.
How can I open the dryer, is it from the back or front?
Thank yo
Great instructions! I have a question/comment. You mentioned your dryer was tumbling, but not putting out hot air.
I looked on page 5-4 of the PDF service manual (great resource, thanks again!). It says: “If the thermal fuse opens, power to the motor is turned off.”
Since your motor was still turning the drum, wouldn’t that immediately rule out the thermal fuse as the potential problem?
There you have it, I guess. You are probably right. My only question is that some people here seem to have had the fuse problem and used this post, and have not commented yet. If they could say whether their dryer tumbled or not, that would be great. Also, I could just open the dryer and unhook one side of the fuse, effectively burning it out temporarily.
Thanks for the comment, and I’m glad you found the manual useful. I hope you save it in case the link goes down someday.
Merry Christmas!!
By the way Nelson Sanpedro,
If Domeboys is right, it looks like ti just might be your thermal fuse. You can find information about getting to the fuse in the main post, as well as the information on opening the dryer, with the screws at the bottom of the front. By the way, as you can see from the other posts, I am not a professional. I am just a guy trying to figure stuff out and letting you know how it goes.
My drum was spinning but with no heat. I went ahead and checked the thermal switch and it tested fine, but the heater coil failed. It looked fine, but turned out to have a small break that I missed the first time I looked.
I went to check prices at partstap and was surprised to find the heater price is now up to $52.47 plus shipping or about $60 total. I ended up buying the same part, supposedly also made by Whirlpool, for $29.99 plus $5.50 shipping at appliancecarestore.com. Supposedly two day shipping, but we will see. I will let folks know how it goes.
Two comments to augment the instructions. Make sure you tilt the front of the dryer as noted. The two screws that hold in the kickplate are at an angle a bit from below, so getting them out at normal height would be almost impossible.
Second comment. Getting the heating element out is a bear, even after the mounting screw is removed! I finally got mine moving by pushing in slightly then pulling outward. The white terminal plug gives you something to grab onto on the left side, but its hard to get a grip on the right. Be patient and you’ll get it.
With the directions provided here, you can do the repair yourself!
Just realized that even at $35.50 I spent $10 too much. The same seller has an ebay store with the heating element, p/n 3387747, for $25.50 and free shipping. On ebay, they go by “shopxmart”. They claim the part is US made.
Part took a week to arrive, though it was over holidays and I suspect some of the delay was USPS Priority Mail. Part looked to be genuine with “Made in Mexico” stamped on box along with Whirlpool info. No surprises with installation or operation. Thanks again for this blog. Was of great help to me.
Great site and I appreciate the advice. My unit was not heating and I had a feeling it was the coil and it was; broken right in two.
Also my Duet was literally FULL of lint, it was everywhere and now my shop vac is full! I found that I was quoted anywhere from $18 to $70 for the element and I found the best price was on Ebay the auction site, a non Whirlpool (which is made in Mexico by the way) part for $27.29 with free shipping. This aftermarket unit is also made in the USA!
Any thoughts on why I have so much lint? I never have a lot in the filter.
Thanks for the info.. I had the same problem and this helped a lot…
WOW!!!!In this economy the last thing I could afford to do was call a repair man when my 2 year old Duet dryer stopped
heating so I got out the handbook that came with the dryer and it was no help so I turned to the internet and your site popped up and it had easy step by step directions and
even pictures and a link to a repair guide. My husband who works 6 days a week 12 hours day’s was able to follow your
steps and remove the fuse and check it in minutes and Bingo!!!! the fuse was blown, he was able to pick up and new one for sixteen dollars and fix the dryer in a matter
of minutes!!!! Thank you!!! Thank you!!!! Thank you!!!!!
I really appreciate the positive feedback. I am glad it worked for you, and I am going to try to get more things up to help people. I just moved into a new house so that should provide some material.
Best of luck
oh yeah……it worked
and btw, thank you soooooooooooo much 🙂
Can we get access to the Duet Washer Manuel too please?
thank oyu for the info on the dryer with no heat.i will be trying out and suggestions of problems and will follow up with repair trouble.thanks again for the info and the link….
Thank you! Your experience saved me time and money. I have a newer model, but the parts and concept is pretty much the same. Following your troubleshooting, I found the heater in mine was burnt out; I expect too much lint build up was the cause. I gave the dryer a thorough cleaning and will replace the heater.
Thanks again for posting this!
I had the same problem but I had some heat (102 Farenheith) at the exhaust of the dryer. The automatic cycle were stopping to soon. So I thought the problemmight have been with one of the sensor but the problem was the heather element. How the heat was generated, I don’t know but I’ve replaced the element and evrything works well now. Thanks for all the messages that were posted previously.
Same problem for me too, but my fuse and my heating element checked out okay. I tested the voltage going to the heating element (CAREFULLY) and it shows 0 voltage… so what would you suggest at this point?
I’ve really enjoyed reading all of your posts… love trying to fix this stuff myself.
thanks for all of your great insight
I would just check connections first, and then go through the manual I posted. I am not a professional, just did the troubleshooting and thought I would post about it. If it is not a loose connection, then start checking voltages along the electrical pathway (again, very carefully). If the voltage exists across one spot, that component is suspect.
Good luck
Thanks so much. These directions were awesome. I fixed my dryer and my husband is amazed. I had a broken heating element as well. The only thing that I am worried about is the way I hooked up the wires to the thermal cutoff, thermostat, and heating element. Does it matter if the black wire and red, red/white wires are backwards? I don’t mean connected to the wrong component, I just mean they might be reversed on their component. It seems to be working fine???
It is scary to see how hot that element gets and know how much lint was floating around inside. I am surprised there aren’t more fires started from dryers. Now that I am aware, I will be cleaning it more often. Thanks again! 🙂
No heat in the dryer, but it does spin and blow cool air. Control panel seems to be working just fine. Circuit breaker is not thrown. Cleaned out the lint in the cabinet. With dryer unplugged, used the ohm-meter to check the heating element, thermal cutoff, and thermal fuse and everything tested okay. Pulled out the heater element. That and all connections to it look okay too-though we’re definitely amateurs. Not too crazy about checking the 240V to the dryer, so haven’t done that yet. What else should we be checking? I was so hoping something would fail its test and we’d know what to replace…
Really confused now. After we got the dryer put back together–without replacing a thing–I plugged it in and voila! heat! So I threw in a load of towels, and ran them through one cycle. By the time it got to the end of that cycle, the heat had petered away and it was back to blowing non-heated air. Four cycles later, the towels were more or less air dried.
I’ll probably replace the heater element anyway and hope that fixes it. If it’s not the heater element, then I’ll have to arrange for a service call.
I wish I felt more comfortable checking the voltage at the source and along the path since that may be where the problem lies with our dryer. but I don’t.
Thank you just the same for the troubleshooting information as it was very easy to follow!
Hey Jody,
Now that you say that, I think I might know what is wrong. I bet you have some sort of loose connection. If your heating element shows the proper resistance, than it is not the problem (unless it is the connections. Instead of checking the voltage at the sources, check the resistance along the line, with the power off and unplugged. If your resistance is to high at any point, that is where you have the disconnect. You might want to recheck the resistance on your heating element also.
Good luck.
Durch – Thanks for this article. I have he same dryer and the same problem. I followed the steps you laid out and found a break in the coil. What a great way to spend a sunny afternoon!
Now to find a new one.
We have Whirlpool Duet propane dryer that will heat up, but it doesn’t dry the clothes. I don’t think it’s getting hot enough. I have taken off the front panel and watched the burner light up. It works fine but then it doesn’t re-light after the first couple times. It tries, the igniter gets hot but it acts like it doesn’t have propane. After I let it set for a while, well cooled, it will ignite and run again for a couple heat cycles.
I’m stumped.
We have the Duet 9400, purchased two years ago. Recently noticed that dryer heats up, but doesn’t dry clothes well. My husband took skirt off and found inside of dryer had a blanket!!! of lint everywhere. Very dangerous. We cleaned it all up and cleaned internal section of dryer vent. My husband noticed that the design for the internal vent is very poor and allows lint to enter internal dryer parts rather than go out through the venting system. Called whirlpool, they are sending A & E tomorrow. I am past warranty so it’s on me! I want them (A & E) to see how badly designed the vent system is and hope they will help report back to Whirlpool so I can get some help with either a corrected vent system or new dryer that is free of this dangerous and troublesome problem. I’ll update afterwards.
Well, the tech came today and, yep, he can’t help me since the design is basically…bad. I went to Whirlpool’s website and e-mailed them the following:
I scheduled service through Whirlpool for my Duet Model WED9400SW0 for today. My problem was that dryer has not been drying well and seemed hot. My husband and I discovered that the lint filter design is so poor that the inside of the dryer becomes filled with lint. We took off the bottom panel and photographed the blanket of lint throughout the dryer. Quite dangerous as it gets all over the wiring and element as well. Tech came today from A & E and observed the same. He confirmed that he sees this all the time, even when customers don’t complain about it. His ticket includes the following “Lint screen does not seal off blower outlet & allows lint to by-pass lint screen. Lint fills dryer cavity.” He, obviously, could do nothing to help me as the design is poor. I paid a lot for this dryer and I’m very nervous about using it. What do you plan to do to help me? I need a better designed lint/blower assembly or a replacement dryer that does not have this problem.
I’ll update when I hear from them in a few days. Wish I knew how to upload pics here cause we have some amazing shots of how badly designed the lint filter/blower is on this machine.
Diane, we’ve had out Duet for 5 years, and I’ve never come across such a poor design in lint traps like this one. It is absolutely the worst! The dryer runs like it doesn’t even have a trap. Once a month, I have to pull the dryer out to clear out the exhaust hose and the exit it comes from. Oh, the drudgery!
Our Duet (GEW9200LW0)) is probably 10 years old now and 2 years ago it sounded like a drum support wheel had failed. This happened twice on a 15 year old Kenmore I had for 15 years prior to that. The Duet was making a horrible rumbling noise and shaking pretty badly. After taking the thing apart (and taking the wheels out to look at them, I found that they fan was clogged and caked with lint so badly that it was out of balance. I cleaned it in place, vacuumed the exhaust and we have used it for the past 18 months or so without a problem. Yesterday the dryer stopped drying and I pulled the heater and fuse. The heater coil is broken (infinite resistance) and I will order a replacement as soon as I get off of this post. What I found most alarming is that the heater exit duct had charred and browned lint on the bottom and sticking to the inside of the upper duct. No doubt this is the cause of the burnt smell that we get after we run a full load of towels. Exactly what we need – a lack of confidence that the thing is safe to use. I’ve cleaned everything up and plan to put weatherstripping felt around the seams of the internal exhaust ducting in order to reduce the amount of lint that gets sucked into the heater inlet vents.
Diana,
did anything come from Whirlpool? We opened ours because it wasn’t heating and found more lint than you can imagine – everywhere. Our lint screen was never full – we cleaned it before every use.
Anyone have any suggestions for my dryer? I have the Whirlpool duet 9200 model. It is 1 year and 3 months old, which of course is now only 3 months after the warranty period. I have heat, and spin, however, I have noticed the amount of lint that is being collected in the lint screen is less than half of the usual amount, and after the dryer is done, the entire load is still wet. I watched the timer. When I put in the load it started at 40 minutes. At 35 minutes, it instantly jumps down to 16 and then runs down normally. When it ends, everything is still wet, and I have to start it again, sometimes even a third time. At all times it jumps down at approx the same 35 minutes. I was thinking maybe sensor?? or is it the timer?? and what is up the smaller amount of lint?? If anyone can help me, I would appreciate it.
1st thought…You may have poor air circulation due to a build up of lint in the air passages, lint screen or exhaust duct to out side.
2nd Consider the moisture sensor. It may be bad or covered with lint. That sensor tells the controller how much time to use.
You may be able to confirm this by using the “timed dry” manual cycles.
Thank you Jim for your ideas. The lint screen itself is totally clean ( I wash it out every so many loads, since I use dryer sheets). I will pull out the dryer and look at the inside for lint buildup. The outside duct feels like the normal amount of air is still coming out though. I don’t understand why the amount of lint can significantly decrease like it has.
May be a dumb question, but where is the moisture sensor?? I did use the timed manual cycle and it still dropped down around 35-56 minutes, down to 14, and the load was still wet.
It took 3 runs through to dry my load tonight.
Duet Electric Dryer. Nearly all of the PRESET, DEFAULT timers in the Automatic modes has changed their presets (eg: Normal according to the manual, and the way it was earlier in use, is 40 minutes. Mine was 30 minutes this morning and 48 minutes this afternoon.) All but one of the automatic settings has changed it’s supposed preset (and unchangeable, according to the manual) time to other numbers. Any ideas? We have tried unplugging hoping it would reset itself to factory defaults but no luck and cannot locate a reset button either. thanks so much.
I have a Whirlpool Duet Dryer. The clothes have a burned smell- the smell is also there when just starting the dryer. The hose is clear- checked that first.
Someone mentioned a thermistor in an earlier thread. Thermistor??? Thermostat maybe?
any suggestions? Thanks, Rob
having a problem with water in the bottom of drum and in the air
vent( flex) the day after I dry a batch of clothes. the moisture
caused the control panel to fry for the second time in a week.
the repairman said that I kept a/c in the mobile home too cold,
causing the dryer to sweat inside. could this be?
please let me know whay you think before I fry another panel box.
thanks
I too have water (about a 1/2 cup full) after a batch of clothes. I’ve had to unhook the flex vent to the room so cloths will dry, which is not the answer. I have not fried any parts (yet). I’ve been very unhappy with the unit from the start. Mine is 3.5 years old and just started this latest with the water. Did yours stop?
Excellen article – have no ignition or heat in my natural gas model. All the thermistors, fuses and parts of the coil in the gas valve seem to be within normal reistance ranges per specifications. The pin 4 to 5 measurement is 1281 ohms where the manual says range should be from 1170 to 1770 so it is 11 ohms high. Don’t think this is enough to make it not work, but then this coil does control the gas valve.
Anyone know if the valve control coil resistance is that sensitive as to not work if it is 10% out of tolerance?
How does one test the igniter? That is the only item I have not measured, the schematic says it is a coil, I suppose it should work if there is resistance and not work if resistance is infinite (open circuit)?
Thanks,
Edward
Update for all board readers – the culprit of no ignition with no error codes given, turned out to be the thermistor P/N 3976615 that sits next to the thermal fuse on the blower duct at the front of the machine. Wires going to it are red-white and black. This is a Duet dryer – gas fired. Using a high impedance digital meter set to 20K ohms, the old part read 1200 ohms when the manual says it is supposed to be 10,000 ohms roughly at room temperature. Finding one locally on a holiday weekend was a chore, but a local independent working out of his truck had one for sale – premium price of 30 bucks, but it was a bargain. Wife has working dryer again.
Just wanted to say thanks for this post. I had the exact same problem with my Duet and was able to diagnose it and order a new heating element with the assistance found here. I’ve placed the order on ebay from the shopxmart seller for $26.49.
The inside of my dryer was absolutely filled with lint even though we very consistently clean it before every load. I’m going to set a reminder on my calendar to clean it out every 9 months.
The metal mount for the heating coil was discolored and cracked and the heating element wire was broken. Thank goodness there was no fire due to this!
Thanks for the help. We needed to replace the thermal fuse on our gas duet. Bought the part at a local shop and we were able to fix the dryer in 1 afternoon.
Thanks also! Same report as others – filled my vacuum with lint 1st when heater element was pulled out easily noticed a break in it. Ordered from the ebay seller – $26 compared to $47 partstap.
Awesome, 1 hour and practically a new dryer for under $80
My duet gas drier just started making really loud noise when turning. It sounds like a belt or pulley banging something. It rate is many times faster than the turning of the drum.
any ideas?
My duet electric dryer is making a horrible noise it started with an occasional squealing and has now turned into a rattling noise.
I have also noticed that my lint screen is only collecting half the lint on the screen. Literally, the left half is collecting lint and the right half is clean. I vacuum the lint trap out every couple of weeks.
Does anyone have any ideas?
I am currently problem solving the same issue in my duet dryer… I am thinking if it’s not the obvious (tripped breaker or loose wire) then it will be the thermal cutoff or heater element. Here’s why:
In 5-4, it states if the thermal fuse opens, power to the motor is turned off, so am I correct that if it was the thermal fuse in the OP’s original situation, his dryer would not have run at all? I confirmed this by disconnecting the wires to the thermal fuse, the motor does not run. Bypassing the fuse with the naked wires together runs the motor but still does not generate heat.
It can’t be the thermistor beside it, otherwise there should be an E1 or E2 code.
If it’s the thermal cutoff, then the source of overheating the thermal cutoff needs to be found or it will just burn out a new one again.
I’m going to ohmeter test the heater terminals… I suspect that I need to replace the element.
Bought a $7 multimeter today. Tested 5-3 to 5-6 in the manual. The thermal fuse, thermistor, and thermal cutoff show continuity. The heater (5-3) does not, pulled it out and there is a break in the spring. eBay shows $35 shipped, will see how much the local vendors are asking.
Thanks OP for your informative blog, would not have been able to do it without.
We have a Duet Steam 9500 purchased over a year ago. The Dryer would run its cycle and clothes will still be wet. Lots of moisture inside when I open the door. The other day I even heard what sounded like water.
We just opened the vent tube in the back and it was full of water. We emptied it out…probably at least a gallon or so.
What do you think causes this? And what do we do now?
Thanks. Glad I found this post! Sounds like alot of people are having problems.
I have the Duet Electric Dryer (not steam) and it too retains lots of water in the vent tube. Just started this, the dryer is 3.5 years old. Did you find the cause?
did you find a solution to your problem with it retaining water? Mine is leaking water out vent pipe and taking 3- 4 hours to dry clothes.
Having a problem with an Electric dryer, no lights on control knob and the digital read out(time) only has hash marks. Checked the circuit breaker and the troubleshooting guide had no info for this. tia
Jon, if I may, what was your fix? Thanks.
Thanks for the info. I have a duet dryer that often shuts off before the clothes are dry. I followed the instructions from the attached manual to test the moisture sensor. The manual says I should get an 03 code if it is working correctly or an E1 code if it’s not. I get an 02 code. Any suggestions.
Thanks
Great site here! Mine was the thermoster and the heater coil, but your site was fantastic as a starting point. You helped save me a couple of hundred dollars, and I thank you. I got my parts at a local retailer, that way no issues with a web site, and got the dryer up and running same day. I also had the same issue several folks had, the inside of my dryer was like a felt blanket. I’ll be taking off the bottom access plate and vacuuming it out a couple of time a year from now on. What I found on other sites is this dryer has a poor design for containing the lint
You’re my hero! My wife was running wet clothes around the neighborhood last night because the dryer quit drying. Found your site and followed you through the process. The fuse was fine but heater coil was showing no continuity and sure enough it was broken. I also had a little trouble getting the coil plate out of the cylinder but because of your blog I knew it needed a little help. Needle nose pliers did the trick. Found the part at MendingShed.com (which happens to have its corp HQ 20 min away from my home so I went there to pick up the part). Cost me $49 but I got it same day and worth every penny. I also picked up an extra fuse just in case that blows too one day. Pictures on you blog could be better and brighter but other than that it saved me and made me look good at the same time. Gotta love the internet!!!
I have a whirlpool duet dryer model #GEW 9200LW1
The dryer takes a couple of cycles to dry in either auto cycles and timed dry. The element checks out ok. I cleaned all excess lint from everywhere i could reach from front access and i removed lint screen duct. The dryer does heat up and airflow seems fine. ???
Joel
Joel,
Your problem sounds like the unit is not venting properly. if it is unable to dissipate the water vapor which gets extracted from the cloths when heated, the water will remain in the cloths and take much, much longer to dry.
run the dryer and check the volume of air coming out the vent. it is a bit difficult to describe to how much air should be coming out but if it were blowing you in the face, it’d probably feel like 20 mph or so.
Hello,
I have a duet dryer. The lights come on, but when you push and hold start, it clicks and the light comes on for “sensing”. Then it just sits there with all the lights on and does nothing. Any ideas?
My dryer has the same problem. It just happened tonight.
I have been noticing that the clothes have been taking longer to dry lately. Any suggestions as to how to get it started again?
buzz- I think your problem (as I’m sure you know by now) is that your belt broke or came off. When the belt breaks it will flip the belt switch which will keep the motor from operating after a belt comes off.
i have awhirlpool duet dryer it went from wont start to can’t cancel ,unable to change temperature to not working at all no lights on at all on the panel.have you got asolution for this?
I will try out these instructions later this evening. I have the Duet 9200 and the heat has stopped, but the drum turns. I picked up the fuse and element. I’m just going to replace them both and not worry about it for another 8 years.
I have noticed many comments here about the amount of lint that builds up in the bottom of the dryer and peoples belief that it is caused by a bad lint filter. It’s not the lint filters fault. The lint and dust in the bottom of the dryer is from the source air your dryer is using. The source air for the dryer is pulled in to the dryer from the bottom of the front panel and probably many other little holes around dryer enclosure. It is sucked in to the heater enclosure in the bottom right, sucked up the back and then in to the drum/dryer chamber, then through the lint filter, through the fan and then out the 4″ pipe and out the back.
And yes, you definitely want to vacuum out the bottom frequently. It doesn’t take long to get a hefty layer inside the dryer and you want to pay special attention to the top of the heating chamber. The first few times I vacuumed it out I missed it as it has the baffle in front of it. The chamber being flat is a great resting place for dust and lint. I had about 1″ on top (5 years worth) that was scorched black. It is very scary to think of that igniting when you are asleep. Now it gets cleaned every six months or so. I also have some family who have the same dryer and I pester them from time to time to make sure they deal with it.
Happy drying!
Just to follow up. My issue was simply a burned out coil. The coil wasn’t interested in coming out, and yes I removed the screw, so I grabbed my flat nose pliers, grabbed the metal plate that holds the coil and pulled gently out. It slide out with no issue. Once out it was obviously the issue. The coil was broken at the back and underneath. And the metal frame that holds the coil was also burned and cracked in half at the back. All in all, a 15 minute job.
I have the same problem above with no hot air. I am willing to try the thermistor replacement but want to rule out the board. I tried running the diagnostic test, which is heavy duty, timed dry, increase dryness and louder. Wasn’t sure I actually understood these steps myself. So, how can I rule out the board?
I have to tell you you rock! I just fixed my dryer with you instructions. I used the Ohm meter and went throught the steps and it was the heater coil broken. I got a new and wha la! Thanks, Thanks, Thanks!
I got the front of the dryer off and cleaned out a ton of lint, but cannot find the thermal fuse. I have a Duet 9250. Can you guide me in how to find the fuse on this model???
I am sorry Angela, I have no idea. I did this when fixing my own dryer. If I was a guessing man, I would say to feel along the ducting for a component with a wire or two going to it. I am not an appliance repairman and I can’t analyze it over the internet. Best of luck.
To everyone else, thank you for the positive feedback. I need to get going on putting up new posts, and I will in the future.
Thanks,
Durch
I have a whirlpool duet dryer model # GGW9200LQ0, Last time i used it i put in a blanket that was to wet it was working and then stopped and the lite said wet, So i took it out and there was alot of water in the dryer i soaked it up and let it dry for 2 days.
Now when i try to run it again on empty it just says sensing, The time runs down like its working but it wont tumble.
Please help
yguetae- I think you have the same problem as our friend buzz^^^^.
It seems like that heavy, wet blanket caused your belt to come off or break. The belt hit the killswitch (which keeps the motor from operating).
What I day I had. First, thanks to you, I went to sears parts in Charlotte and bought a new thermo fuse ($18), which was clearly burnt out. Replaced it, but no good. Then Sears said, bring us the whole heating tube unit thingy (you can see how technical I am) and they tested the ohms. The coil was clearly bad as well. I bought a new one ($59) and I am back up and running. So many thanks as I would have had to pay at least another $100 for a pro to come out and do what I did in about 15 minutes!!!!
My only issue now, is that it has that new coil smell. If you can let me know how long it takes for that to dissipate, I would appreciate it. I would assume it is NORMAL????
Again, many thanks to this blogger and to sears for having the parts on hand and helping diagnose and cure the problem.
Bobby
Did that smell ever go away? We just did this and have that burnt smell. Kind of afraid to run it a full cycle.
the control lockrd light on my dryer is on and nothing else works. help.
My Duet GEW9200LW0 is not producing heat. I’d visit your site back in December when I had the same problem. Back then, it turn out to be the heating element, which I replaced. Now, I have no heat again, but the new heating element checks out fine. I replaced the fuse (even though I had tumbling). So at this point, I have no idea what the problem is. The connections to the heating element appear to be fine. Is there anything else I should check?
Great information!
My Duet Dryer, 9200 modle, osn’t heating up
I changed out bith the Thermal Fuse and the Thermistot, but to no avail.
The unit is still running cold
Can you suggest another tactic?
my duet dryer will start and run for 10 mins and then shut off. I checked the door to make sure that it didn’t pop open on accident. The door was secure. any ideas?
Thank you so much for the info
It cost us $15.00 for the thermal fuse and now we are all set. It would have cost about $150.00 to call in service
Excellent information, and thanks for the link to the service guide. My problem turned out to be the heating element. For my 2004 model Duet Dryer model GEW9200LW1, I needed FSP part number 3387747 (5,400 watts – 240 volts). If anyone in the Oklahoma City metro area needs Whirlpool parts, I highly recommend Dick Christman’s Appliance at 4825 N. May Ave, Oklahoma City, OK, 73112, (405)946-2685. Both now and last year when I needed a drain pump for my Duet washer, they had the part and were open on a Saturday. Friendly, helpful folks there, too.
Incidentally, my new heating element measured out at 9.8 ohms using a Fluke autoranging DMM. The old one, of course, measured open.
I am extremely jealous of those of you who have had only element, fuse, or thermistor problems. I’ve troubleshot everything and all roads keep leading to a failed control board ($120-160). This board was already on its way out, as the moisture sensor circuit had already failed, and kept telling the dryer that the clothes were always wet. We have had to switch to the timed option and guess at how long each load will take.
The design of this dryer is horrendously bad. The circuit board is constantly exposed to heat, lint and moisture. It’s no wonder they fail. I went with Whirlpool because of a history of a previous set that lasted 30+ years! I guess those days are long gone, sounds like it’s now 3 years life expectancy 😦
Purchases Whirlpool duet 3 years ago. Today, started dryer and it’s making a new noise. I pulled off the back and checked the belts and the rollers the drum spins on – all are OK. Plugged in the dryer and started it. Got on the floor and the sound was coming out of the exhaust. When I covered the exhaust it became much quieter (because I was muffling the sound by covering up the hole). The only thing that makes sense to me now is a bearing on the motor starting to go bad, but the dryer is only 3 years old. What do you think?
Hutch
Thanks for this! I replaced my ignitor and thermal fuse (the most likely suspects for my no heat issue) and we have heat again! Got my parts overnighted from PartSelect.com and still paid less than a service call.
FWIW – my thermal fuse looked different – it was small and rectangular rather than diamond-shaped.
Now if I can just find that sheet metal screw I dropped…
Thanks for the post. Gave me the tools I needed to open the dryer. It seems the lint had started to scorch and that’s why we had the burning smell. Sounds dangerous? It probably is. There must be something in the maintenance about opening that front cover from time to time and cleaning it out.
Mike
I had all of those errors but unfortunately did not have this page! After the second computer blew, we wound up getting another duet.
I have had the washer baffles break off after about a year and a half of use. Poor design, they cheaped out on the posts that anchor it to the tub. Just tried a retrofit were i glued square nuts into the holes with silicone and put another drop of silicone in the other hole on the opposite side of the tab to reenforce it. Used toothpicks to force the silicone into the holes. I will see if that works.
I have to say “Thank you”. My dryer problem was exactly the same as yours. My heater element was broken as well. I ordered one this morning and should be back in business in a couple days. Not real sure about electrical stuff but, it wasn’t that bad. My wife is real happy and that’s always a good thing.
i just bought my washer and dryer a month ago… i’ve probably used them a dozen times… tonight i noticed the burning smell. I just read thru the posts here and i am confused as to what people are saying causes it. can someone please explain it to me in really really simple terms?
Seriously…You rock. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Worked great.
Mike
This was spot on! Thanks for the instructions. One thing that helped me was the handy-dandy tech instructions enclosed in a nice plastic baggie. I discovered them taped to the inside of the kickplate. The instructions have a specific testing procedure if the dryer doesn’t heat.
I used an ohm meter to test the 4 connections specified in the instructions and the 4th was bad (open circuit). This ended up being the heating element.
At first I couldn’t figure out how to get the heating element out of the shaft it’s in. After removing the front faceplate to the shaft enclosing the heating element this was a breeze. The front faceplate is the support that holds the end of the shaft – closest to the front of the dryer – up. It’s secured by two screws…one to the floor of the dryer and the other to the bottom of the shaft.
Sure enough there was a break in the heating element coil. I found a replacement for $22 on Amazon. It’s part number: 3387747.
Thanks for the great help, especially the link to the service manual. My heating element was bad too, but I spliced it with a small nut and bolt, and it’s back up and running. I’m sure I’ll eventually have to replace the element, but I have too much dirty laundry to wait around for a part 🙂 Your directions were a big help for this handywoman.
I cannot believe I fixed my dryer. I consider myself somewhat handy, but have always been a little leery of appliances. Thanks to your instructions and a little fortitude, I was able to replace the heating element in my Duet dryer. Piece of cake. Thank you for the article.
Thank you so much for the details in this article! I was able to fix my dryer for a mere $23 all by myself…it even impressed my husband! Thankfully, I didn’t have to replace the heating element, only the thermal cut-off and the hi-limit thermostat! The pictures were helpful, as well as the links to the parts store and the repair manual! Thanks again!
I have the same problem as Rob, but did not see a reply that dealt with it…dryer is heating but not drying, it is very humid when the door id opened. There is water in the vent hose…any suggestions?
The panel locked light is on. The dryer will do nothing. I have model number GEW9250OPW1. Help
@Harold, did you try unlocking the controls?
1. Locate the “Controls Lock/Unlock” button on the far right side of the control panel.
2. Press and hold the “Controls Lock/Unlock” button for three seconds to toggle the lock feature.
3. Observe the status light. The status light is lit when the controls are locked. The status light is out when the controls are unlocked.
Read more: How to Unlock a Whirlpool Duet | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_6086053_unlock-whirlpool-duet.html#ixzz1C9NKfLpS
Also, I’ve found that on Sears website, you can actually get schematics for your machine.
For instance:
http://parts.sears.com/partsdirect/getProductType.pd?parentCategory=Laundry+%26+Garment+Care&productType=Dryer-Parts&sort=soldCount&dir=desc&selectedBrand=Whirlpool&page=1&selectedStyle=Residential
Click on Sears PartsDirect
This will bring you to a page like this:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Whirlpool-Parts/Dryer-Parts/Model-GEW9200LW0/1198/0151200?sid=PDVertical
After I turn the control button on the machine lights up. When I push the START button the machine will not start. Once I open the dryer, the inside light does not turn on. I pushed the button on the inside lip and it does not click….. Could you please advise me? Thank you.
very helpfull
Any insight into my situation?
I checked the ohms of the thermal fuse and it was zero so from this site I suppose it is ok.
I checked the heater element and it was 10
I also checked the Thermal cutoff and the High limit thermostat and they read from zero to 0.1
Any help would be appreciated.
Although no one reasponded I found out that the dryer was fine. One leg of the 220 fuse had blown so the 110 ran everything except the heater.
This was tricky because the fuse lever had not moved, but it fried inside.
I removed the front panel my Whirlpool Dryer YGEW9200LW0, but can’t see how to get access to the thermal fuse. From your page it seems to be enough, but I don’t need to open the whole panels. Or, the panels also have to be open? If yes, what is the sequence of their opening?
Thanks a million!
You need to reach around. If you look at the diagram in the manual that I linked to, you can see in on the breakdown. It is not easily visible from the front, you do have to get in there a bit. Good luck
Thanks for the great post. One piece of advice, if heating coil is difficult to remove from housing, like mine was, just wiggle out the thermal housing altogether after disconnecting wires and heater shield. You can then remove the heating element. Mine was very difficult to extract and I finally had to tap out with handle side of hammer with edge of housing secured against bench top. Having removed the housing does make it easier for replacement of heating coil, thermal cutoff and high thermostat (along with cleaning out a decent amount of lint). These components can be assembled to housing, outside of dryer, then installed. This also eases having to work in tight spaces with the ratchet. Wife can’t believe how quickly and inexpensively I got this problem resolved. Better than flowers. Thanks again.
Wow, like everyone already commented. Good instructions and helpful advice. I have a 9250 model so the schematics were a bit different. Found the problem. Heating element ordered from ebay seller shopxmart. Had to pay tax as I am in FL and so is the vendor.
Addressing another issue. My dryer vent has 2 90 degreee bends. Out at bottom of dryer, up the wall and out the space between the first and second floors. The vent was completely clogged at both bends. I had it cleaned out 2 years ago, but who knows what type of job they did? I cleaned what I could and had another company come in to clean the venting.
The dryer was full of lint, cleaned that out as well and took everything apart to clean in the dryer cabinet. The heating element had burnt lint on and around it. Scares me to think about families with this product who are unaware of the danger!
Thanks so much fo rposting this very helpful information.
Got the heater coil in 2 days from shopxmart. Plugged it in and it works. What else is there to say?
Hi, Can anyone tell me if I can replace the mother board control panel on my Whirlpool Duet Electric dryer. Mine is fried. Is the part easily replaced? The service tech told me the part was $275.00. I think I saw the part for less on the internet. I was wondering if anyone knew if the part was easy to replace.
Thanks.
Hello Karen,
When I bought my Duet washer, I got a sweet discount because the front panel was banged and the main board was cracked. I bought the new board and it was fairly easy to replace, with all of the connections being plug and play, and as I recall, all the connections could only go in one way. I am not sure about the dryer board, as I have not done it, but the washer was fairly simple. If I were you I would try it, and be concious of where you are unplugging everything from the old board.
Thanks for reading and good luck,
Durch
Thanks for he information. I think we are going to try to replace the part ourselves. I thought the part was a plug-in. I’ll let you know how it turns out.
where do find the cheaps parts for dyer duet whirlpool mod gew9200lq
need cheap parts for duet dyer model gew9200lq
I have a question…my dryer works great for 2-3 loads. Then is just won’t turn on again. I have unplugged and waited 2 days. Then it works for 2-3 loads again and that’s it.
Is this an overheating problem? Or is this something with the main board.
Any solution to your issue???? I have been having similar issue & can NOT figure out the problem. If I unplug the dryer for a day, it would work for a load or two & than quit. Please advice if you have a solution.
This handywoman thanks you!! Our dryer quit heating and this post made it super easy to pull the heating element for inspection. After I pulled it (in about 5 minutes) I saw that the wire of the coil was in two as well and I’ll be calling Partstap in the morning for a new one. Thanks again!!
My duet dryer, dries a load and then when it’s done. The control panel will not power back on. when I open the door the drum light comes on, so it is getting power, it’s as if the control panel is not getting power.
Did you get a solution to your issue???? Mine does the same & it is rather annoying. Please advice if you have a solution.
My Whirlpool duet dryer gets extremely hot. I replaced the thermistor and thermal fuse and that did not help. Now (about 1 month later) I am stilling having the problem and I get an E2 error code. Any ideas?
Thanks for this – Great instructions. My heater measures open, so I guess that is the culprit.
One question, though. Do you still have a copy of the service manual? The secured.whirlpool.com link doesn’t work any more, and unfortunately, that’s the only link a Google search returns.
If so, can you email it to me? The address is cmunic8r at gmail. If it’s too large for email, I can provide some upload space for it. Once I have it, I’ll host it for others to download.
Thanks again!
Update:
Dryer fixed! The heating element was physically broken on part of the coil.
Also, I have a link for the service manual at the trackback (titled First Post!).
Thanks again for the help!
I cant get the tube that holds the heating element back on how do I do it?
My dryer started making a weird screeching noise which then turned into a banging noise. Now when I turn on the dryer the control panel works, even times the load until it’s done, but the drum won’t turn? Any help with what I can do to fix this will be GREATLY appreciated!!
Hi,
Our dryer started to smoke & luckily my wife caught it in the of time before it started a fire. My question is this due to heating element or the fuse or combination of both or is it due to something else. Any help would be appreciated . Thanks Sam
So the same thing happened to my dryer and my husband followed your blog! Thanks so much!
Hi Jennifer,
I had no choice but to open the dryer & check the problem myself. I opened it from the front & back to get access. I have found out that lent was cumulating over the years & somehow a string of lent got connected the heat blower & as soon the blower started, it ignited the lent . I have cleaned all burnt lent & fired up the dryer . it works fine but we keep an eye on it while it is running just in case. Best way to clean burnt lent is if you a vacuum cleaner with narrow attachments. You do not have to open the rear of the dryer if you have the narrow attachments.
can you have a partially working heater coil, i.e. maybe it is shorted out against the chassis and only half of it is heating up? We have an intermittently low heat situation. haven’t check resistance yet. What values are supposed to be for the coil and sensors?
i need help reconecting the sensor wire i removed the i din’t look at the position of the neg or pos cable
Okay, my whirlpool duet lights come on when I hit the power button as it would normally, but when I hit the start button it has an extended beep – like it would do if the door was open, except the door is closed? I can’t find anything on the internet about this kind of a problem. Have I missed something obvious here?
Today my whirlpool duet sport gas dryer beeped to let me know the load was finished I opened the dryer and it smelled BURNT. I saw previous posts about burning smell but I did not see a post that said why this happened or what parts need to be replaced. the dryer works it spins and heats but smells burnt. Any suggestions would be helpful! I either have to have a repair man out or replace it… unless someone has a suggestion on what to try first Thank you very much!!
When I turn on my duet dryer the sensing light comes on and after waiting a few minutes the clock starts counting down but the dryer does not start operating. I replaced the sensing electrodes but that did not help.
Alan: I am not sure what is wrong with your dryer however you might try calling a parts place in your area and asking if they recommend a repairman. This is what I did and when I called the repairman he told me how to fix my burnt smell and it didn’t cost me a dime! The repairman said it was most likely a lint fire and that the front panel should be removed and a shop vac should be used to get out all of the lint. Good luck with your dryer issue. You might find that your problem is a common issue in your area with that kind of dryer and the repairman may be able to tell you what the problem is!!! Good Luck
Gabby, you are correct. Alan, take off the back panel, use your vacuum to clean out all the lint then take off the front bottom panel and do the same thing.
Maybe a 30 minute job.
We just purchased a whirlpool duet steam dryer last weekened. Installed today. Did my first load of laundry in the washer perfectly. Put the clothes into the dryer WED9270XW and it won’t power on. The light inside the drum is working. No power to the controls. Any thoughts? Was told they will exchange in store since just purchased it, but that’s a huge hassel since we live a good distance away. Thanks in advance for any feedback!
During shipping, the connections in your controller my have come loose.
Here is a link on how to get to the front panel.
Hope this helps Tammy.
I had the same problem. I switched out the Coil Valve (two small black cylinders right in the front next to the gas valve) at the bottom of the dryer. $45 and the dryer is back in business.
Part number 279834, fro FSP. Bar Code 0 50946 01370 1. Very easy to do it yourself. Two screws and replace the coil valves.
I appreciate this write-up, as I was able to troubleshoot my own Whirlpool dryer issues and diagnosed a broken heat element. Much rather pay for the part alone 🙂
Thanks again!
Fantastic help. This makes life a little easier. Clear and simple
This goes back to the original problem, not heating. I checked both the resistor and heater element, I used a conductivity tester, if it beeps, its ok, which they were. Next I checked both thermistors on the heater ‘tube’. Front one was good, resistance and beep for conductivity. Second one back was bad, no beep, no resistance. I replace both (as that’s how they sell it, saying they might both be bad or going to fail soon). 35 dollars at a local parts repair place. Keeping it local help save economy and was up and running in 2 hours. While you are there, remove the place cover to the left, 3 screws and vacuum it clean, you will be surprised as to how much lint is there.
Thanks for the step-by-step Durch. It was easy and certainly saved me some cash. How did we ever survive without the internet for all those years?! Posted in 2007, and still helping hundreds! It should be noted that there is a tab on the top of the heater core housing that goes into the exhaust tube, so there must be a little tilting action to extract the heating unit. I had to reference page 5-3 when re-installing to get the wires right, but will note that I am glad that some wires do not fit the fuse terminals…that prevented a serious mistake by me. I found the replacement element at a local appliance store (Batson’s) for $56 + tax. It was worth it to get the part on my day off of work. Again, thanks Durch…for your guidance.
JD,
How did you get the tab on the element core back into the place where it reconnects? My tab does not have a screw hole, looks as if it goes into connection and lets the housing hang on that end. due to limited space, there must be a trick. Thanks for your time.
Scott
This is JB, I just put the whole thing in then lifted it on an angle, so it goes down and in. Might need to wiggle it around, try also turning it to the left and then in. Hope this helps
Thanks. Got it before your replied, but it sure did not go in easy. Unfortunately, that new design is certainly not user friendly like the element that just slides out. Thanks Again
Thank you so much. I was inclined to retire my 6 year old washer when the heater went. I had already lined up a purchase of a new deut dryer and was not to happy to be spending Christmas money on a new dryer. I searched google for my problem and came upon your page. $50.00 later im up and running and the kids will have a better christmas after all. Thanks for taking the time to help us all out. I see this was posted in 2007 and its still helping folks till this day.
Are these instructions good for Duet model GEW9250PWO?
After viewing the video by Dan Weiss, would it be easier to repair the heating element and fuse and clean/vacuum the inside of dryer if I took off the entire front panel? Would it be necessary to go as far as removing the drum to repair the heating element? At what point would I be able to access the heating element and fuse fairly easy?
I have seen several ask, but no reply. My dryer won’t start. The control panel lights come on, but the light inside does not work and the dryer will not start. I replaced the thermal fuse that I have heard so many speak of, still it will not start.
I know it sounds crazy, but check the interior bulb and see if it is burned out.
What about an error code “6E”?
The lights on my dryer would not light up> I have owned it for 6.5 years without a problem. I took it apart and checked the electronics board and console to make sure everything was properly connected. (I also checked the lint trap). I reassembled and then I ran diagnostics. Got 88 and then, following instructions, I proceeded through each of the buttons to turn them off. I couldn’t get all the lights in the manual cycle to stay off, but other than that, it worked as described. But then the code I get is 6E. Once I get out of the diagnostics, then it goes blank and silent again. What am I missing? What does 6E mean?
My same model dryer heater at partstap was on $31.75 because I found $4.25 in change at the bottom of my dryer!
from ask.com
ok so 6E means that your thermistor is out of range or your interface control board is bad and not reading the thermistor correctly. If you remove the 3 screws along the bottom of the lower front panel, the lower front panel will pull down and off. Unplug the dryer and you can access the thermistor which is just behind the lint filter housing mounted to the top of the blower wheel enclosure. Below is a link to the thermistor you’d want to replace. If it doesn’t fix the issue, then you need a control board.
Read more: Whirlpool Duet electrical dryer. Error code 6E. All lights – JustAnswer http://www.justanswer.com/appliance/61co3-whirlpool-duet-electrical-dryer-error-code-6e-lights.html#ixzz1kUks6okP
also, no need to remove the drum to fix the sensors or thermistor. It was actually a dime that shorted out (killed) my sensor (comes in bag with 2). So good maintenance idea is clean bottom of dryer yearly, it all comes apart easy.
Finally !!!!!!!!!!! A FIX-IT solution that is easy to read and follow – thanks to all of you for your time !!! Can you believe it ? A dryer, a 32″ Sony, a dishwasher, a hit-and-run in the parking lot, and a Jeep heater ALL IN THE SAME MONTH !!!! What a month…well technically…….40 days !!
Has anyone found an answer to the leaking water from dryer vent issue and not drying clothes very well, there is some heat but not like i think there should be and takes 3-4 hours to dry one batch.
we have replaced all pipe used for venting cleaned all lint out of dryer etc and now leaking from pipe into basement. Have insulated the pipe thinking condensation and still leaks and smell awful when drying clothes.
I had a similar problem with a gas fired duet dryer, the drain filter on my washer was plugged with half socks so it left too much water in the clothes.
I undid the base panel on the washer (4 screws) and unscrewed the white 2″ stopper plug, cleared the attached filter and I have not had the problem since.
Thank you so much but we checked that and it was not the problem. Heating element checks out ok but still leaking and taking 3-4 hours for a load to dry. Very Frustrating.
the length of the venting could be the problem or the size of the vent,the dryer is heating properly,but the vent is not removing the steam properly.the steam cools down in the vent and collects as water.Just to check,you can use an indoor vent kit to see how long it takes to dry a load.
my frontload whirlpool dryer works when it wants to. sometimes it turns on drys the clothes perfectly. on the other hand sometimes it wont turn on at all
what the problem here
This might be helpful for some.
I just replaced the fuse and checked all of the parts.
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We have a 5 year old 9250 Duet which lately stops working for limited times. About 5 for the led lights are on faintly. If you wait it out (from hours to days) it starts working again. The repairman says Whirlpool does not have a diagnostic test for this condition and the main board is PROBABLY the culprit. Expensive fix with no guarantee. We bought a new dryer with mechanical controls. As for the lint problem I would suggest taping the joint between the elbow and the pipe that runs to the back of the machine. Use metal tape not duct tape. You have to take the lower front cover off. Also in our machine there is a detail repair and testing manual inside on the right once you take the top off (3 screws in the back.) Whirlpool should be thrashed for putting out such a poor quality machine.
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My dryer turns on the heat but it doesnt appear that the fire is hot or forced enough like it used to. It isnt getting hot enough to blow hot consistant air through. What would cause that?
First thx for the website. I have a 9 year old Whirlpool Duet dryer GEW9200LW1. The dryer was pushing air but cold. The fuse tested good. Tried to test the resister with ohm meter but can’t. No continueity(sp) whether its good or not. My problem was the element. Tested it at its plug, no continueity(sp). It looked ok but could not see the break until I pulled it out of its sleave. Replaced element works great.
You da man!! My wife thinks I’m a hero!
Thanks!
Our dryer , a whirlpool duet gas dryer two days ago stopped heating. So we isntalled a new thermistor, heating element and the thermal fuse and still no heat. The dryer turns on and blows air but still no heat. We called the gas company and made an appointment to make sure were getting gas. Past that what else could be the cause of the problem? I would appreciate and advice or help. Thank you
read back a few months to January, I believe it is those two sensors on the ait chute. the are the size of dimes. Again, look back, there is a way to test them (or take them out and bring to a parts shop to test) They come in a bag of two…..
Shop before you buy! I determined that I had to replace my heater element on a 10 year old Duet and located the part online. The part was $66 at Sears so I kept looking. After checking 5 other sites ($39 – $58) I found it on Amazon (in stock) for $18. For another $4 I will get a new thermistor kit. Thermofuse was about $7. It is worth it to shop around. Even if my wife has to hang the clothes outside for a couple of loads!
Thanks for the article. It took the fear out of trying to figure this out myself versus paying an exorbitant repair call fee. Even ordered the part from the link you provided. Just did it, so can’t vouch for their service yet, but the price was right. (~$30 less than my local parts house). Found the break in my element once I removed it.
Man-o-man there’s a crap ton of lint inside that dryer. I’m amazed it doesn’t go up in flames…
(Cont…) Ok, part was ordered Friday late and was here by Tuesday afternoon. That’s pretty darn good because I used the least expensive shipping.
I could not get my dryer to power on yesterday. I have been troubleshooting: cleaned out the vents but they were not bad; took off the bottom front panel, tested the thermal fuse, heater, thermistor, etc. Everything seems ok. I had thought I would just replace the fuse but decided to put everything back together and see if the diagnostic test would run by pushing, more time, less time, more time, less time within 5 seconds. Nothing. I walked away and a few minutes later I hear a beep and it is running. When it completed the cycle, I pushed the control on button and it will not come on.
Should I now try the console and touchpad subassembly?
We have a Whirlpool Duet Dryer Model GEW9250PW0
The other day I opened the door to put in a load.
The light blew out, Now when we press the start button we get 4 quick beeps.
I pressed more time and less time buttons and got error code 6E
All panel lights red except cycle complete which is green after this sequence.
Any feed back or thoughts appreciated.
Thank You
Low heat as well here. When i clean I like to use a small handheld vac (like an Oreck). I place this at the duct end, and then use my air compressor to blow from the screen end. This works well. But I wonder what might be a good “gauge” of outlet temperature that I could measure?
Had no heat but tub tumbled. Thanks guys!! Thermal fuse and heat element.Replaced Fuse first..nothing….heat element….that was it!!! You all saved me a good chunk of $$$$ . Tub turned …so manual may be correct in saying tub will not turn if Thermal fuse blown.AND I cleaned this insides out 2 months ago and couldnt believe the LINT!!!!! Pretty flawed design AND dangerous.Let your relatives know about this so that they clean inside theirs…I’m surprised there haven’t been lawsuits…would be interesting to research
I have a problem wit Duet washer that is tart the cycles and it prompt a code F06 , stops working in the middle of the cycle need help please post a suggestion to the problemDate: Sun, 2 Dec 2012 02:02:44 +0000 To: francesnpaco48@hotmail.com
f06 might be too much suds, are you using HE suds? f09 is power hit i think.
Joe: I make sure that suds it not rhe problem be trying to wash with out detergent.
f09 is suds, not f06. Google ‘Duet f06 code’ and you will see it to most likely be the ccu or the mcu (Motor Control Unit). Both are expensive. Try to do a reset on the machine, set it as ‘drain/spin’ then set spin button to no spin and hit rinse hold button 5 times, should go thru a system check cycle. Also try to leave it unplugged over nigth.
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Thank you for all of your help on this!! I actually was able to test all of the components mentioned in this article, but everything was working. I talked to a lady at the Sears replacement part center and she said that with all of those other pieces working, it was most likely the thermistor. I swapped it out and the dryer is working fine.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the info!! My dryer went out just like you described and I followed your instructions and I fixed it! This was a real lifesaver as my husband is away on military duty and I didn’t want to pay for a repair man! Thanks again! My husband will be so proud!! 🙂
I have a problem with my duet it starts drying but it doesn’t complete the cycle and cloths stay wet. Please help me solve the problem
I also have a problem with my duet from whirlpool washer machine it starts the cycle but the it gives me code F6
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I have a problem with my duet it starts drying but it doesn’t complete the cycle and cloths stay wet. Please help me solve the problem. Already changed the heating sensoer
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I HAVE A DUET DRYER THAT KEEPS GIVING ME A CODE 88 ??? I CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING ABOUT A CODE 88. THIS IS WHAT IT IS DOING. I START THE DRYER WORKING GOOD. THEN ALL THE LIGHTS I MEAN ALL OF THE LIGHTS LIGHT UP, AND THE TIMER GOES FROM 34 MINUTES TO 88. THE DRYER KEEPS WORKING BUT, THE TEMP. GETS SO HOT IT SHUTS ITSELF OFF. I CAN GO RESTARTED, AND IT RUNS GOOD TILL IT GETS TO HOT AGAIN , THEN IT SHUTS DOWN AGAIN. I TOOK IT APART AND CLEANED THE LENT TRAP AND EVERYTHING OUT. IT WORKED GOOD FOR ABOUT A MONTH, THEN STARTED ACTING UP AGAIN. ANY IDEAS.
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after rcvg my repaired control board I popped it in and plugged in the dryer. it worked- then i put all the pcs back together and moved the dryer back into its spot. no power to the control board again. the lights on in the dryer barrel- no power to the control board what do i do?
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I have a Whirpool Duet WED9400SW1 Electric dryer. All of my control panel lights will come on, but the dryer won’t start. I’ve tracked down a technical guide to help with troubleshooting. The dryer gave a F30 code which means air flow. I tested the thermal fuse and it was bad so I replaced it along with thoroughly cleaned out the lint from underneath the dryer and hoses. Put a new fuse in and within an hour of drying a load, it went out again. I put a new fuse in again and left the vent house unattached and in the troublshooting mode went through the airflow testing which resulted in “normal” air flow. So I kept the hose disconnected and proceeded to dry another load of laundry, then it stopped working again. I have pulled off the thermistor and holding the sensor, tested to see if the resistance changed with the heat from my hand, and it did. Any other suggestions would be much appreciated? Next steps?
Thank you,
Rob
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thank you for your site! I have a whirlpool duet dryer WGD8300SW0 (gas) that quit working. performed diagnostics changed main control board and door switch light continues to stay on inside dryer so it won’t start up. There is power to the front panel and when you hit start it beeps 3 times. Is it possible I reconnected something wrong? If so, what? I have tested everything and everything checks out ok except for this problem that light stays on and dryer therefor will not start. Thanks in advance!
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My whirlpool duet dryer will dry one load of clothes then needs to be unplugged for a day before it will dry another load. The clothes are so hot i have to let them sit for a while before folding. I did the diagnostic and i get the 88 with all lights on. I then rubbed my fingers over the sensor on the lint box and got a code of 09. I am not sure what is wrong with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
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Took off bottom of my whirlpool duet dryer to replace thermal fuse have two wires up closer to lint trap one was plugged in don’t know where second one goes