Building An Inexpensive Bunk Bed of Pine, Pictures and Measurements

I was going to buy a bunk bed, but everyone wanted an arm and a leg, so I decided to build it myself. Since I couldn’t rapidly find good instructions on the web, I decided to make something up and then post it. Here it is. (We are horrified by the carpet also. We are replacing it this weekend. I will let you know how it goes and maybe post a few pictures for any do-it-yourselfers who would like to learn on my dime.) Please give me any feedback on what doesn’t make sense etc, and what you think I could do to improve this post.

Picture of Bed 2Picture of Bed

Required (I purchased from Lowes)

10 8ft 2×6’s (straight)
3 8 ft 2×4’s (straight)
16 5/16 3 ” hanger bolts (Lag bolt on one side, thread on other)
16 5/16 nuts
16 washers that fit
wood to hold up mattress (3/4 inch thick ply or wood- I used both)

Before you start, please note my lessons learned at the bottom. Also, before you assemble any pieces sand them, knocking off any sharp corners. It is much easier to sand boards before they are assembled and their grains don’t align.

Four of the 2×6’s will be posts at the 4 corners of the bed. These need to be cut to length and have holes drilled in them to accept the hanger bolts.Close up of holes for hanger bolts
1. Cut the boards to 72″, being sure to trim off any bad parts at the ends.
2. The bolt holes need to be 1 3/8″ in from the side. Because I knew I had to sand it, I made a line all the way up the side 1 3/8″ from the edge so I could see where to make the holes.3. Make marks for the holes at (from bottom) 13″, 16″, 55″, and 58″. This is for the heights seen in the picture. Fix it as you wish. MAKE SURE YOU SET THESE UP IN PAIRS- ONE SET OF HOLES ON RIGHT, ONE ON LEFT. I almost messed this up and ruined a piece of wood.
4. I drilled the first holes with a 1″ spade bit 3/4 inches deep. This leaves a flat bottom for the washer to sit on and leaves a nice pilot hole for the 3/8 hole you need to drill for thebolt itself.
That is it for those pieces.

Next, to provide the cross bars to the end pieces, we simply 2 2×6’s into 6 31″ lengths.
I used a Kreg jig to drill holes at the ends of these pieces so I could attach them to the posts at the edges, as shown in one of the top two pictures. You could simply drive in the screws at an angle, but that wouldn’t look as nice, and would provide more sliver opportunities. The bottoms of the 3 crossbars are at 19″, 56″, and 64 1/2″. Attach them using 2 1/2 inch grabber screws. This makes an H type frame with three crossbars.
The last four 2×6’s make up the rails that the beds themselves rest on.

Rail Endview
1. Please examine both methods for steps 2-5
2. Make a 3/4 inch deep cut 3 1/2inches from the end.
3. Make a 3 1/2 inch deep cut 3/4 inches from the end. Make sure you have 3/4 inches of wood left, and that you have calculated the width of the blade in there.
4. Use a chisel or knife to make sure the cuts are clean, so the boards that the mattress will rest on can lie flat.
5. Cut the rails to 74 1/4 inches long, again, being sure to take at least a bit from both sides so you will have a clean end.

2-5 An alternate (and much easier) way of doing this is to buy a 1×6 and a 1×2. To get the exact same dimensions, you simply screw and glue them together so they look like the picture. Make sure they are held flat when you are screwing and gluing them to minimize any bend. Wood glue all along with a 1 1/4 inch screw every foot will give you a great rail in a fraction of the time. I would recommend cutting them to 74 1/4 inches after you glue them, to avoid uneven ends.

End shot on one of the Rails

6. On the end of the board, mark the holes for the hanger bolts. They should be 3/8 inch from the outside edge, with one hole 1″ from the bottom, with one hole exactly 3″ above the bottom hole. Drill these holes with a 1/4 inch bit about 1 1/2 inches deep.
7. Turn in the hanger bolts until 1 7/16″ remains above the surface of the wood. This makes sure you have enough thread to grab with the bolt, while still being recessed enough to make sure your child isn’t going to have issues with it when running past.
8. On one of the rails, I made a guard rail to keep my son from rolling off. I made sure that he could not slip between the guard rail and the mattress, and just used three pieces of scrap pine to fasten the guard rail to the top rail that supports the mattress. The leftover piece from the ladder should be long enough to make the 54″ rail.


The ladder is the latter piece (pretty rough, but).
1. Cut two 2×4’s 63 inches long. Cut a 15 degree bottom. The 63″ should be the measurement on the long side.Marking with doohickey
2. Cut 5 14″ long steps. Make pocket holes (with the Kreg jig) on the bottoms of each. You can also just drill them in from the sides, but it doesn’t look as clean.
3. On the 63″ pieces, make a pencil mark at 9″, 19 1/2″, 30″, 40 1/2″, and 51″. These are the bottoms of the steps
4. Use an angle doohickey (or piece of cardboard) to transfer the 15 degree angle to each step.Ataching Stairs
5. Screw all the steps to one side (I used 1 5/8″ grabbers) , using the marks to make sure the angle corresponds with the mark you made in the last step. Make sure the pocket holes are on the bottom.
6. Put the other side of the stair on. Attach using screws.

We used boiled linseed oil to treat the wood. It is inexpensive, and preserves the characteristics of the wood. Just use the instructions on the can. It is best to do this before assembly.

All that is left is to assemble the bed.

1. First, install both top rails to one side, using a washer and nut for each hanger bolt, not too tightly at this point.
2. With assistance, attach the other post piece, again not to tightly
3. Set in the bottom two rails. This requires two people with some maneuvering, or one person with some skills.
4. After all the rails are in place, tighten all the nuts on the hanger bolts.
5. Attach the ladder using two screws driven from the inside of the bed.
6. Place 38″ boards across the rails. You could use a sheet of plywood or multiple smaller pieces. I just got rid of some of my scrap. Make sure that you prevent these pieces from shifting. I ran a strap across the top, attached it to each piece with a staple gun, and screwed in the end pieces. You don’t want the mattress falling down and smothering your child.

Again, best of luck with this project. Please leave comments on how to improve this and what is hard to understand.

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140 Responses to “Building An Inexpensive Bunk Bed of Pine, Pictures and Measurements”


  1. 1 Adam March 17, 2008 at 6:48 pm

    What is the reason for the bolts? Is it absolutely necessary? Do you think it would be acceptable to use screws in the wood or even metal brackets with screws? Thanks in advance for any comments you can give. Adam

  2. 2 durch March 18, 2008 at 2:29 am

    Hey Adam,

    First, to directly answer your question, no. You could use brackets if you wished, or even screws (make sure they are long enough to get a good bite, and you may want to predrill the holes to prevent splitting of that thin piece).

    The reason I used bolts.

    1. Easy to take apart and put together again. I put carpet in that room, and had to take the bed apart to do it. It took me about 5-10 minutes. You just roll up the slats, and remove a total of 16 nuts. I am moving in about three weeks. The bed collapses to the end H’ish pieces, four long boards, and 2 rolls of slats. Really goes in the truck nice. Screws degrade the wood if you put them in and take them out too many times.

    2. It looks clean. All you see is 2 nuts on a bold at the end. This is great for kids because there is nothing to get caught on, cut on, etc. It looks sharp. It has the rugged type look while still maintaining a clean appearance (before your kids write on it with sidewalk chalk.

    3. It is very sturdy. Those two bolts will hold huge amounts of weight, and the connection really makes the bed very stiff, without a lot of flex at the joints.

    4. It was really pretty easy. The good thing about the bolts is everything is pretty straight forward. I think you could use brackets instead, but I just find that it is hard to hold things that big, straight, while trying to put a screw in, even with help.

    I can see the point of the brackets, and they would work.

    By the way, is there anything you don’t like about the bolts? Just trying to make sure I understand your situation.

    Good luck and I hope this helps

  3. 3 deborah November 17, 2008 at 1:33 pm

    Hello, We are wanting to make a bunkbed for our two daughters. They each weight around 120 pounds. Will the top bunk hold that weight? thanks. PS. your intructions and pictures are great.

  4. 4 durch November 17, 2008 at 3:50 pm

    I have been on the top bunk with my two boys (160 + 30X2=220lb) without any problems. The top bunk should definitely be strong enough, just make sure your wood slats are spaced close together. Mine have about a 1″ gap between each 3 1/2″ board.

    Good luck, and thanks

  5. 5 Clayton January 5, 2010 at 10:09 pm

    How did you cut the angle at the top of the stairs?

    Thanks

    C

  6. 7 josh April 16, 2010 at 4:09 am

    what where the bolt that u use to build it

  7. 8 mikaila ryan laning July 12, 2011 at 6:20 am

    hey does anybody know how to fix a piece of wood for a bunk bed under nieth the top bed

  8. 10 ethan hebbe September 14, 2011 at 1:43 am

    Awesome guide built one for myself except i transformed it into a loft to go over a couch!

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    Hi, My husband is going to make our boys bunk beds for our holiday house. how high is the bottom bunk from the floor and what is the space between the two bunks eg top of bottom bunk mattress and bottom of top bunk. cheers

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