Posts Tagged 'Children’s Table'

Making a Childrens Table: Putting It Together

Here is the finished product.

Children's Table


In a previous post, we already talked about cutting out all of the pieces. Here we will finish up.

Gluing it up is relatively simple. Make sure you are using the short support pieces where the legs make up the length by the way they are turned. I put these together first, checking the dry fit with the biscuits, and then gluing it up. I use a kid’s paintbrush in to apply the glue. It helps me get even coverage and reduces squeeze out. I then use a clamp to hold the joint in place.

Take the long pieces and get them ready to glue up. Check the dry fit, and if everything is good, glue and go. If you are using pocket screws, it helps to put the support piece on a spacer, clamp it, and then screw it, putting in a little glue if you want. You should end up with a clamped assembly that looks like this. Make sure you sand all the glue off before you stain. Being more careful with the glue saves you a lot of sanding.

The Alignment of the Supports

The Alignment of the Supports

You are almost done. Attach the figure 8 pieces, predrilling the holes with a 1/8″ drill bit. Only go 5/8″ deep when you pre-drill. You can use a collar or just some tape around the bit to let you know when to stop. Drill the holes and attach the figure 8 pieces using the 5/8″ screws. If you have questions look at this post to see them attached.

All that is now left is to attach the table top. Put the table top upside down on the floor. Center the frame on the table top. You should be looking at something like this (without stain).

Upside Down Children's Table

Upside Down Children

When the frame is centered, make a mark though the hole of each figure 8 using a marker or pencil. Then remove the frame and carefully drill a hole for the screw 1/8″ in diameter and 5/8″ deep. Do a test hole on a piece of wood with similar thickness to make sure you aren’t going to go through your tabletop. After you have drilled all four holes, put in the 5/8″ screws and you are done except for the finishing.

If you haven’t yet, go over the whole thing with some fine sand paper, and then stain it. I used Miniwax Red Mahogany and liked the result, thinking that when a kid uses a marker on the table, it will fade into the dark color better than a light color. After the stain had dried, I used boiled linseed oil for the finish. I would recommend a penetrating finish for kid’s things, as kids tend to be hard on things.

Good luck and please ask any questions.


Making a Children’s Table: The parts

This is one of two posts on making this table.  The post on finishing up is here.

Children's Table


The Cut List

Here are the pieces that I used to make this table.

  1. The table top: 23″x23″x7/8″. This extra little bit of thickness makes if feel more sturdy.  If you can’t get a hold of 7/8″ thick wood, use 3/4″ thick for the table top and legs.
  2. The Legs: 4 pieces, 1 7/8″x17 1/2″x7/8″
  3. Support Piece. Because the legs are not square we need two lengths for a square frame.
    • Two longer pieces: 3″x17″x3/4″
    • Two Shorter Pieces: 3″x15″x3/4″

You will also need four figure 8 tabletop connectors, 8 3/4 ” long screws, and 8 biscuits, and some glue.
The only piece here that could really give you problems for the sizing is the table top. Due to lack of 23″ boards around, I just took some boards and glued them together on the edges using basic wood glue and clamps, and let it set overnight. Make sure you leave the ends long when you do the clamping. Trim it all at one time. You can use a tablesaw, a circular saw, a sliding miter saw, or even a handsaw. Make sure you get the cut straight by using a fence or clamping on a piece of wood as a guide.

After the table top dried I used a chisel to scrape off the glue from the glue up and used a hand planer to level it. In one spot where the grain got interesting, I had to go to scapers and a sander. I finished sanding down the top using 220 grit so there would be a smooth surface for writing.

Cutting the legs was fairly simple. I used biscuits to attach the legs. In the following picture, note that the support pieces are set 1/8″ back from the outer edge of the legs. You can use pocket hole screws for this also, with a jig (I use the Kreg jig). Think about predrilling, as these screws have a higher chance of splitting if they are screwed into the end of a board

The Alignment of the Supports

The Alignment of the Supports

The offset is great for two reasons. The look is good, and it keeps a potentially uneven edge on the inside. I aligned the biscuit joints with the back side of the legs on the 7/8″ side and used a 1/8″spacer on the front side. This picture is from a slightly different table, but the concept is the same.

Note the White Spacer

Note the White Spacer

You are done except for cutting the grooves for the figure 8 pieces in two of the support pieces. This post has me doing it for some chairs I just made, and the concept should be the same (look at the bottom).  Keep these slots for the figure 8 pieces close to the ends of the boards.

Give everything a sand down and then, on to assembly!